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Like I said, there's a procedure in the manual for bleeding the air out, I just don't have the manual here with me. I will try and get that information to you tonight.
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Il try again tomorrow and see if i can get it. Am I right in thinking that disconecting the plug and wires will stop them talking to the cdi therfore taking it out of limp mode. Once reset button is pressed. As long as reset button is working that is !!
If I disconnect it and hit reset light and light still remains what should i check next.Comment
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I might buy a new reset button and filter replace them both. I just dont want to start throwing money at parts too much and there is no one around to ask so thanks for the info I appreciate it.
Are the reset buttons all the same to buy one I see a few on ebay on none the precise same.Comment
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That's what I'm saying.
One step at a time, you definitely will have air in the oil system, verify that you understand not to run the motor without pre-mix until the system is bled.Comment
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I'll be back later with the bleeding instructions.Comment
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Yes ive been doing that 50 mix, tho also having some other issues cylinder 1 is not firing to make things worse. Thats why i really need to get it out of limp mode to sort cylinder issue. Just a thot would !! Would limp mode cause the cylinder not to fire. May not be connectedComment
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Won't be able to get to my manuals until next week, basically bleeding the oil system involves removing all air bubbles from the filter assembly and then opening the chrome plated bleeder screw on top of the pump until all air bubbles are gone. Continue to use pre-mix for awhile to get the air out of the supply lines. Maybe someone can post the procedure from the manual.
Once you get the red light out, the motor should no longer be in limp mode, the ignition problem may go away.
When you get a chance, let me know what the white printed numbers are on your CDI.Comment
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Hi thanks for this il try it out and get those numbers off cdi. Wont be able to get to it until later in the week now. Il post back with whatever I find, getting a compression tester just to make sure its not the head.Comment
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Compression tester is a must have, typical numbers will be 120-125psi. Did you see any evidence of over-heating when you had the head off? How did the cylinders and piston crowns look?Comment
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Yeah it all looked good. Never been in salt water. No damage or marks. Did notice no thermostat tho. Someone else had removed this. I was looking at if the water flow temp sensor may have put it inro limp mode. Thats why I was asking can the other sensors simply be disconnected to stop them talking to cdi.Comment
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No stat could indicate the owner was having over-heat issues. If you're going to keep the motor, I would order the stat and water pump. If you decide to replace or at least look at the water pump, ask questions before dropping the lower unit, if you don't disconnect the shift shaft under the lower carb you will pull the shaft out of the lower unit which will require a full disassembly to reinstall. Were you getting a good stream from the tell-tale?
You already know that the red oil light is putting you in limp-mode, I would address that first.Comment
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Yes I im trying to get that oil light first. Im going to get a thermostat and impeller put it in anyway tho the pisser is running. Could piss more maybe as its not an overly strong stream.
Is taking off the lower leg the same as moat outboards. I had a yamaha once that you had to disconnect the gear linkage under a gromit on the side of the upper leg. Is this not the same. When you say disconnect it from under the bottom carb do you mean up in the engine itself. Thanks . Sorry to be such a noobComment
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Yes, there's a shiny 15mm nut under the lower carb that needs to be loosened a few turns and then pushed in, on the other side make sure the pin comes out of the shift shaft before lowering the lower unit.Comment
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Does the carb need to be out to get at the nut.Comment
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