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dt65 oil reset problems.

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  • #31
    No, take a look under there with a good flashlight.

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    • #32
      How were your compression results?

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      • #33
        Ok guys. I've had a bit of success. Thank fook.
        Here is what I did.
        Compression tests came back at cylinder #1reading 117 #2 was 118 and #3 was was 117. So good news. The head work done was all good. This then lead me to look at fuel and spark again. As a matter of course I had replaced fuel pump. Just got a new one and threw it in. Took all 3 carbs out and gave another super good clean with light dremil drill with soft tips. cleaning blowing out jets full strip down and slight adjustments to carb floats to ensure a good seal when upside down. Blew through them until I locked off air at precise level. Bowls then perfectly set. Took oil micro switch out and ensure small circle hole behind gauze was clear and clean. Put rubber gasket back in the bleed the oil through the top screw ran engine on mix until all bubbles came out. Then tightened down bleed screw. Disconnected all plugs and cleaned with electrical spray inside sockets all round and put the wires back in.
        Cleaned and inspected sparks double checked gap. 0.9 spot on. Fired up and seemed to go and rev up. However its always done this. So only one way to find out.
        Took it to the closest river and dropped it in. Fired it up and she chocked down for a min when giving it throttle. I then sprayed a bit of easy start into intake and she took off like a rocket. Stopped the boat and started it up and this time the revs came in correctly andnaway we went. Maybe something chocking as this was the first cold start. After that ran boat all day and everything seems to be good. Had WOT with no hesitation.

        So my next issue wich at this point is a minor. I noticed now that my kill switch doesnt work. I mean when I pull the keys out replicated a quick pull out and the engine did not stop. As a safety concern now im wondering is there any way to rig up a universal kill switch just for peace of mind does anyone know how to do this to wire it in. What wires I should be connecting a new kill switch to.
        So im not sure precisely what fixed it, but it was one of the above. Love to hear what you guys think it may have been. And extra info on kill switch replacement. I dont think the current one can be fixed. Its a mess in there

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        • #34
          Good news on the motor, the safety switch is only $29.47 here on this site, it would be a wise investment.

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          • #35
            Brilliant. Is there a link or whatever to the DT65 kill swith or universal ones. And dumb dumb instructions for fitting it. How do I find it. Thanks

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            • #36
              Can anyone advise what kill switch to use and how to wire it in. I want to put a seperate one on, with new lanyard. But unsure of how to do it. What wires do i put the new switch to ?

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              • #37
                Where is your kill-switch located now?

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                • #38
                  Its on the throttle controls. Ive got a black plastic key to start it. Attached to it, is the red plastic kill switch. They both go on throttle control and when I pull them both oit with engine running. It keeps running without either plastic keys. So was thinking il just wire another one into or around throttle control box. Dont know what wires to put it to.

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                  • #39
                    If you're replacing the kill-switch you have, then use the same wires from that switch to the new switch.
                    You should be able to google your control box, and get a parts listing, also parts break-down for your controls. The kill-switch should not be difficult to replace for most controls. If you have a service manual for your motor, it should give you the wiring schematic for your controls.

                    Good luck.

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                    • #40
                      Originally posted by mphelle8vld View Post
                      No stat could indicate the owner was having over-heat issues. If you're going to keep the motor, I would order the stat and water pump. If you decide to replace or at least look at the water pump, ask questions before dropping the lower unit, if you don't disconnect the shift shaft under the lower carb you will pull the shaft out of the lower unit which will require a full disassembly to reinstall. Were you getting a good stream from the tell-tale?

                      You already know that the red oil light is putting you in limp-mode, I would address that first.
                      I was wondering if I can get more directions on dropping the lower unit out to change impeller as above.
                      I dont know what bolt or screw is the Shift shaft. I've got the engine going well now and going to do this next as a service. Peace of mind thing, but concerned as I dont want to have to disassemble to reinstall.

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