2007 DF150 Check engine light wont start

[satellite]

Hoping someone can offer some much needed help in diagnosing error code. I have the repair manual, but can't figure out what is happening based on the error code charts.

When I turn the key to on position, get a solid checkengine light and a single beep every seven to eight seconds. I attempt to start, sounds like it is cranking fine, but will not turnover.

I recently changed the IAC valve because it cut out at idle while fishing boca grande pass. It would not start at idle but started fine when throttled up in neutral. That issue was fixed with new valve, however this issue has me stumped.

Engine has about 600 hours. Been running great. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Mark

[pniksnut]

the info is nothing to go on.
or make a movie of the chech engine light so we can determine the code but better still, put it on the laptop with SDS or dealer.

i start thinking that the iac valve is out of its working reach. but i am not shure

[satellite]

With Video

Thanks for responding. Here is the video I uploaded to Youtube. https://youtu.be/NOjHr5cu7JA

I did not video me trying to crank it. But I can do that also. Does not sound abnormal. Just wont turn over.

BTW, the battery bank is fully charged.

[pniksnut]

still i don't see any check engine code's flashing. so it could be anything that doesn't trigger a code. a low voltage at the engine could be one of them. is your engine connected to the battery through a main swith ??

and please explain exactly what you do and what hapeens than.

[Harper]

Sounds like it might be a low voltage warning. Although my service manual doesn't indicate the time interval between beeps, the low voltage warning is a solid CEL and repeated long 1½ second beeps.
Just because you batteries are fully charged doesn't mean you have adequate voltage to the ECU. And it's going to be the ECU that detects and warns about low voltage. You need to start checking for voltages back at the engine. Check your white wire and the associated fuse. Check for corrosion, for bad connectors, bad splices. Check all your fuses. Frankly I am skeptical that your idle problem was ever the IAC. Electrical problems can cause the same symptoms as you described at idle, and you might not have the idle problem anymore because it has progressed to the situation that you're now facing. Maybe you just got lucky after replacing the IAC, and everything worked for a while.......right up to the point where it didn't any longer.

[satellite]

Low voltage at engine

Thanks so much for replying. When I get back To boat today, I am going to test the cable at engine for voltage. Sounds like you are right about the error code. The manual does say that the check engine light will stay on constant with single beep. I hfave never understood the white wire setup, but when I looked at my battery, there is a white wire coupled next to the main harness grouping. I will take this down and follow it back to motor. Seems like there is quite a bit of debate on the forums as to the IAC valve and the cause of malfunction for idle failure. My original issue was fixed with the replacement of the valve, but then again your take makes the most sense. I will document and post after I get a chance to delve in deeper. Best, Mark

[satellite]

Follow up to above issue. First I want to thank everyone for your help. Second Merry Christmas. Third.. It looks as though the issue is resolved but I cant say exactly why. I started to strip the electric tape back from the battery in order to follow the White Wire to the starter. I checked the fuses on the starter side of the Fuse box next to the engine before moving forward.. All were good. Back at the battery I followed the white wire to the inline fuse and started trying to take the cap off of the fuse holder which I needed a screw driver to open, but before I got very far I decided to at least put the key in the ignition to try to get an accurate read on the multimeter at the fuse. When I turned the key to the on position, there was no red light. So I decided to submerge prop in water and turn the key. Started right up. I am guessing that the white wire has corrosion by the fuse. Though I didn't see any visible corrosion, I think by just moving the wires i must have made a better connection. I am wondering if I should change out the white wire all the way. Only concern is on the engine side looks a little hairy with all of the other wires. Unless someone has experience in changing this, and thinks it is not a big deal, I may wait. Thanks again for all of your help.

[Harper]

I would just cut the fuse holder out of the wire and splice another in, just making sure to cut enough wire out to be out of any corrosion.

[Murray]

I would just cut the fuse holder out of the wire and splice another in, just making sure to cut enough wire out to be out of any corrosion.

I like Harper's idea, easy, cheap and quick. Should the problem arise again then you will have eliminated one potential source of power problems.

[artdf175]

read the Sticky on the White Wire before going any farther
the white wire provides the power to the ignition switch
then back to the ECM when the key is turned to the ‘on’ position.
how is the WW connected to the battery? is it directly wired to a post or through a pigtail off the battery switch?
the ECM on these engines are very sensitive to power and without a constant full voltage level will give you running problems
so start at the battery connection looking for problems
if the inline fuse has been exposed to the elements and shows signs of corrosion, as Harper suggested, cut that section out and replace with another fused wire.
If you are not familiar with boat wiring- make sure you use water proof wire connectors
Art

[CaptainD]

Have talked about this with the best Suzuki guys I know, everyone of them says white wire should be at a switch and not directly on the battery as they come rigged from some dealers

[Harper]

Have talked about this with the best Suzuki guys I know, everyone of them says white wire should be at a switch and not directly on the battery as they come rigged from some dealers

The wire should be on the main battery switch if your boat is so equipped. If there is no battery switch (which is sometimes the case with a single battery), then it should be connected to the battery.

[pniksnut]

i am sorry guys but the main purpose of the white wire is to make sure that the ECM gets the right voltage at starting. if there is anything with an internal resistance like a main switch it should be avoided. so the white wire should be places direct on the main battery like most suzuki dealers and i also do. it also is so described in the wire diagram .
internal resistance means voltage drop

[redlowrey]

Hoping someone can offer some much needed help in diagnosing error code. I have the repair manual, but can't figure out what is happening based on the error code charts.

When I turn the key to on position, get a solid checkengine light and a single beep every seven to eight seconds. I attempt to start, sounds like it is cranking fine, but will not turnover.

I recently changed the IAC valve because it cut out at idle while fishing boca grande pass. It would not start at idle but started fine when throttled up in neutral. That issue was fixed with new valve, however this issue has me stumped.

Engine has about 600 hours. Been running great. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Mark

It tells you in your manual in black and white condition 2, low battery voltage for more than two seconds with the key on. The wiring on your engine is a little different than all the other four cyl engines up to the df 150 onwards, when you turn the key on, the ecu can sample low battery voltage straight away, on earlier engines when the key was turned on it had to turn the main control relay on first before the ecu could sample voltage, if the key voltage was too low the relay will not turn on.

[redlowrey]

It tells you in your manual in black and white condition 2, low battery voltage for more than two seconds with the key on. The wiring on your engine is a little different than all the other four cyl engines up to the df 150 onwards, when you turn the key on, the ecu can sample low battery voltage straight away, on earlier engines when the key was turned on it had to turn the main control relay on first before the ecu could sample voltage, if the key voltage was too low the relay will not turn on.

''''''''''''I should have put from 2005 so not to confuse people, actually if you look at a wiring schematic from 2004, it's any wonder they changed the set up, too many connectors, places for voltage drop to occur.